Sabah Adventure 2003

Sunset captured, 250 m from the base camp 

A belated account of my adventure in Sabah, well, as much as I can remember.

March 19:

My adventure begins when I was invited by the stewardess to join the captain in the cockpit, and I have never been inside one. It sure was hot inside the cockpit, with the sun glaring right into your face. The captain and co-pilot were very friendly and showed me how the plane works, but would not let me touch any buttons though.

Upon arrival at the Kota Kinabalu airport at 9:30 am on Wednesday morning, we journeyed on a coach for 3 hours through Ranau and Kundasang to Kinabalu Park and checked into our hostels. This is the first time in my life I had to sleep in a room full of strangers and it was a co-ed hostel with common bathrooms. After a refreshing shower, I joined the others for a lunch at the coffee house. Food was very expensive, my dinner comprising rice, vegetables and mushrooms costs RM20! I was very tired and sleepy, and was having menstrual pain so I went back the hostel and slept the whole afternoon and woke up in time for shower and dinner which costs another RM20!

I slept early that night, and woke up at 5 am. After breakfast, the coach took us to Mesilau Gate to start our adventure. The Mesilau Summit Trail was a 8-10 hour climb uphill most of the way, it's the more challenging route compared to Timpohon Trail which is easier and shorter route by 2000 m or 3 hours climb. The Mesilau route experience priceless, beyond words. I'd do it again.

March 20:


Mt. Kinabalu Expedition Team led by Peter Lau 

The journey through Mesilau was quite treacherous for non-seasoned climber like me, but the scenic view and beautiful surroundings was worth the emotionally and physically trying journey. We walked on a narrow ridge lined with bonsai trees, and rare plants and flowers. The view was breathtaking, and the air smells so delicious. From the ridge I looked down in disbelief at how far I've climbed - I couldn't see the bottom of the pit, it spiraled down into a dark grey mist.

Being a slow climber, I reached the first base camp, Laban Rata quite late, and had to use torch light to light the path. The patient and helpful mountain guides, Jule and Biling, were with me then and it was a full moon, so I wasn't scared, in fact I felt fearless and enjoyed my adventure.

I started off my climb with the younger climbers, and towards the middle of my climb with the older climbers and towards the base camp, I was just ahead by just 500 m from the oldest climber, Uncle Fong, who wanted to celebrate his 70th birthday at The Peak.

In trying to make up for the time I had lost admiring the flora and fauna, and not to finish last, especially to a 70 year-old, I sped up my pace. Neverthless, just half an hour later, Jule and Biling said we had to retrace our steps backwards to look for Uncle Fong, who seem to have gotten lost. Fortunately, we managed to find Uncle Fong, and in good time, too, before it gets too dark and foggy.

I got there in time for dinner, took a shower and hit the sack for about over an hour. Then I was awakened by an orchestra of snores - bass, alto and tenor - horrendous, especially Tony, the guy who slept in the bunk next to me was snoring the loudest and I felt like stuffing his mouth with my dirty socks. I tossed and turned and couldn't sleep for the rest of the night. Urrgggghhhh!

March 21:

The next morning, we started off at 3am. My torchlight battery was weak as I used them to search for Uncle Fong the night before. So I was guided by the moonlight and another guide, Cornelius. After climbing some 1000m, it rained, and the wind was strong and chilly, the temperature was below freezing. Another one team member pulled out and turned back, and another 1000m, two more pulled out.

We took a short break at the second base camp, Sayat Sayat Hut, to report our ascent with the warden and take a bite and sip. Another team member pulled out and turned back. I was tempted to turn back because I was shivering cold, but I kept reminding myself, I have a goal to achieve this year and it would be the greatest tragedy not to at least do my best as I've come this far, and I was already on my way up. I kept telling myself, "I can do it!" and I just get on. There's no turning back!

The lack of sleep got to me, when I fell asleep for a few seconds during the ascent. The guide reminded me not to fall asleep because it will affect my energy level. So I pressed on slowly. When I was about to give up, Cornelius took me by the hand and encouraged me to keep on climbing.

The climb up was ascending all the way, until we reached the Summit Plateau. Then it got steeper and we used ropes to help us climb to the peak. On my way up, like 200 army cadets climbed up with me as part of their training, so and I thought only cities are congested. And there's only one rope, so you got to wait your turn. The rope took so long, so guide took me on another route up. So it feels good when we overtook the army men :)


Mt Kinabalu conquered! 
And YESSSSS....after 4 hours, I made it to the peak! And it felt GREAT :) Believe me, Low's Peak which is the highest peak, was congested when I got there! Some of the army men were there and some of my team members were taking pictures. I had to wait for my turn! And my camera battery died on me! And I didn't get to see the sunrise because it rained and the mist was quite thick. Double bummer!

I stayed at the peak for less than an hour. Took a picture with the group and had a snack and chatted with other climbers who came from other countries, especially if they're good looking.
Some people told me not to look down because you will feel scared. But as I sat perched on a rock at the peak, I looked down to Low's Gully anyways, and it felt exhilarating, because I am on top of the world amidst the clouds and I felt fearless. The mist made it look like a bottomless pit because you can't see any further than 1000m down.

I started my descend back to the Sayat-Sayat Hut base camp to report my descent and take a short break. Descending was very hard on the knees and thighs, and I had to descend backwards using ropes. Felt like I was in the movie "Cliffhanger" when I actually lost my footing and dangled from a rope as I swung on the cliff wall. The guide was quick to pull the end of the rope back before I swung to the other side. So the only damage was that I banged my hip on the cliff wall and I got wet. Everyone was worried for a while, and I made some of them scream. I guess they were anticipating a cliffhanger casualty, but was relieved when I told them "that was fun" when I climbed down the rope and walked on like nothing happened.

The descent took about 3 hours and we came back to the Laban Rata base camp in time for breakfast at 10:30 am where I spent RM4.50 for a bowl of miserable Maggi Mee. Within the next hour, I made my descent back to lowland through the Timpohon Trail. Although the route was shorter and simpler the journey back was challenging because after halfway, I twisted my ankle, had blisters on my toes and another toe nail was coming off! I was in pain for hours, but endured it because no matter what, I had to get to Timpohon Gate because there's no other way out of there except on your legs and I can't be asking the guides to carry me! When I reached Timpohon Gate, I shouted victoriously with joy, "YESSSS!!!" I've achieved one resolution this year - to climb to the peak of Mount Kinabalu.

That night we stopped over at Poring Hot Springs and spent the night in the hostel. By now I've gotten used to sleeping in a room with strangers, and not scream when I see a bug, rather, I was too tired to fuss over such trivialities. The hot springs did wonders to sooth the muscle aches and I slept soundly that night.

March 22:

The next day, we were back to Kota Kinabalu and back to civilization. That night, I joined the group for some seafood dinner at the Sedco Square in the city, and braved myself to taste escargots for the first time. Well, they taste like scallops. After dinner, we went to the night market in Gaya Street to buy some souvenir t-shirts.

As we walked down Gaya Street and passed Pizza Hut and Sugar Bun restaurants, I was surprised to see how much this particular strip has changed over the past year, the whole place looks like Bintang Walk in Kuala Lumpur. With live band playing good music, people sipping coffee and cocktails. It is a place you go to be seen. Yes, they have just caught on the coffee bar culture. And I was in drawstring khakis and plain t-shirt lugging my backpack like a tourist on a budget! If I knew this is going to be like Bintang Walk, I would dress up to be seen. Bummer!

March 23:

The next morning, I was in dilemma in choosing between scouring the city for some shopping or shoot rapids on Padas River.

I decided to shoot rapids, because as my legs are sore anyways, shopping and rafting will be equally strenuous. I decided to be a "trialthon" - I must try anything at least once. Besides, I can shop anytime in Kuala Lumpur and it will be a lot cheaper. It was the right decision.

The next morning, we took a train from Beaufort. On the train, I was glad to make friends and have interesting conversation with John, an Aussie diver from Sydney, who was in our rafting group. We talked the whole of the journey to and back, and during stops at riverbanks during the rafting. That was good, because the whole group are Chinese and they speak Cantonese to each other most of the time, and English occasionally only when they speak to me. After a few days of not talking much, I was on the brink of restlessness. Phew! Next time I must learn some Cantonese.

We changed train, and dropped our backpacks at Pangi, and later continued our train ride to another station downstream, where we will start off rafting upstream back to Pangi. After some light snacks, we put on our life jackets and helmets and hopped into our rafts. We were given options to go for beginner or adventure rafting, and I decided to have some adventure. After all, isn't adventure what I was looking for? It was a good decision because I enjoyed myself every minute of it. Fear was never in my mind.

Besides shooting rapids - so many of them and they have interesting names like Lambada, Headhunter, Cobra, Washing Machine, Scooby Dooby Do - the other part I enjoyed most is body rafting where you just jump into the river and go with the river flow and then after some 250m swim back to the river bank or the raft whichever is nearer. It's like soaking in "chai latte" or "teh tarik kurang manis" and I don't know why they call it "white water" rafting when the water is not white!

After the rafting we had some barbeque and noodles lunch by the riverbank before we head back to the city. The train back to Beaufort was delayed by the heavy rain and took shelter on a bridge. The covered bridge reminds me of a book I read, "The Bridges of Madison County", which has a picture of a covered bridge on its cover. From the bridge to the station was a good long walk, and thanks to the genius of Damien, one of my team members whom I nicknamed "Mr. Six Packs", we got across in a huge umbrella borrowed from one of the food stalls.

On the way to Kota Kinabalu, the bus passed Jalan Ramaya Putatan where my ex-in laws live and it brought back many nostalgic memories of The Ex-Husband and me spending time with his family. The good times, bad ones. But I have no regrets, it was good while it lasted. Well, that chapter of my life is now closed. When you have hit rock bottom and reach to a point of no return, the only way to go is up and forward. No turning back.

We arrived at the Kota Kinabalu airport just in time for boarding. Peter, our team leader, who skipped the rafting adventure, has already checked in our luggage and gotten our boarding passes. The flight home was short, we arrived half an hour early, so the pilots must be speeding!

Back in Kuala Lumpur, being a workaholic, the first thing on my mind was work! Oh no! Back to the grind and humdrum of everyday life. But on a positive note, at least for a week, I was living life to the fullest and enjoying every moment of my adventure :)

No regrets!