Thots Travel

Wednesday, June 16, 2004

Exploring the Cat City & Kuching Waterfront

I have arrived - in Kuching, Sarawak, that is. Sarawak is the only state in Malaysia that I have not visited. So, you can imagine my excitement exploring this exotic city.

I have arrived more than six hours earlier than my family due to last minute flight booking. Fortunately, I was able to check into the hotel much early than I'm supposed to, thanks to the warm hospitality of the friendly front office hotel staff at Kuching Hilton.

After checking in and taking some forty winks for about an hour, I decided to explore the city on my own by foot. I was told eveything is just withing walking distance, just walk along the Kuching Waterfront overlooking the Sarawak River.

I was told that the Kuching Waterfront is the place to be for both tourists and locals alike, being a popular meeting place in Kuching. From the waterfront you can see arresting vista - Astana, Fort Margherita and some Malay villages along the river bank.

At night, however, the waterfront becomes more alive that hanging out there is almost like hanging out in Sri Hartamas in Kuala Lumpur, except that you get a breathtaking riverside view. You can choose to bask or just walk along the almost one kilometre esplanade lined with cosy lovers benches, food stalls and restaurants that tantalizes your buds and entertainment spots for party goers.

Along the esplanade you can see restrored old buildings - Chinese History Museum, Sarawak Steamship Building, an outdoor theatre and Square Tower. Modern structures at the Waterfront include a Chinese pavilion and an observation tower.

I took advantage of the perfect weather for my exploration of this city that has justly been described as "the most attractive city in Southeast Asia". It's like living in a garden, with a river flowing through it. I have to agree that no other city in Malaysia has such a romantic and unlikely history. And perhaps, no other city in the country exudes its charms like Kuching does.

Kuching has an unusual name - the word means "cat" in Malay. There are a number of stories as to how this name came about, but it is unlikely that it has anything to do with cats, I believe. The two more likely explanations are that it derives from the Chinese word kochin, meaning "harbour," or that it is named after the mata kuching or "cat's eye" fruit, a close relative of the lychee that grows widely here.

That's Kuching, Sarawak's capital, dubbed as "one of the most live able and people-friendly cities in the region." Kuching is a harmonious blend of modern amenities and colonial days structures interspered with colorful Malay and Chinese shop houses. Modern and old world charms, interspersed. With riverboats along Sarawak River overlooking the quaint old colonial buildings including a castle, it is quite a romantic escapade. Well, it would be romantic, if I'm not on a family holiday.

The Sarawak River is the center of Kuching life and Kuching Waterfront, a beautifully landscaped esplanade, is the main gathering place for Kuching's population, especially as the sunsets beyond the scenic Matang Mountains.

Across the river is the Astana, once the home of the White Rajah's, now the Governor's residence' Nearby are Fort Margherita, a reminder of more turbulent days, and the colourful Malay kampung. All are well worth the short sampan ride across the river.

I thought a stroll along the Waterfront at any time of day is a good start for a tour on foot around the city. It's a very walkable place with none of the traffic snarls or pollution of other Asian centers.

Just across the road is the Main Bazaar, once the city's commercial center, now housing curio and antique shops, travel agents and coffee shops. Main Bazaar, opposite the Waterfront, is the oldest street in the city and the heart of old Kuching. It has some superb examples of Chinese shophouse architecture, many of which have been occupied by the same family for generations. These families still pursue traditional occupations such as tin-smithing, carpentry and petty trading. Kuching’s highest concentration of antique and handicraft shops are to be found here, and shoppers can rest between bargaining sessions in a number of old-fashioned coffee shops with panelled walls and marble-topped tables.

The narrow, bustling streets are crammed with shops selling all manner of goods, from the mundane to the exotic. There are ornate Chinese temples, many fine examples of colonial-style architecture, a beautiful waterfront and a number of interesting museums, including the world-famous Sarawak Museum. Nearby is the Sarawak Museum with its beautiful gardens and the park built round the old town reservoir.

After a few hours' walk, I decided to cool off, and popped into one of the air-conditioned shopping malls in the city center. There a variety of brand name goods as well as local handicrafts and food outlets. Being a city girl, of course, I did some shopping.

Eating, I discovered, seems to be a favorite pastime with Kuching's people and there's such a variety to chose from, Western, Malay, Chinese, Indian. There are roadside stalls and food outlets in the malls. But I decided to try Aunty Mary's Kitchen on Main Bazaar Street, across the Waterfront, for some delicious Sarawak Laksa - it's superb!

My family - mom, brother, aunt, uncle and cousin - arrived around 6pm. In time for dinner. After they checked in and rested for an hour, we went for dinner at Arif's Cafe along the Waterfront for some fried soft shell crabs. It was yummy!

After dinner we decided to go for a moonlight river cruise along Sarawak River. The view is fantastic - sparkling lights from the buildings look like jewel in a crown, you can almost pick them one by one.

Under the bright moonlight, from the river I can see picturesque Malay villages (kampungs), a golden-domed mosque, a Victorian fort, a whole street of 19th century Chinese shophouses and an imposing wooden-roofed palace, all set against a background of distant mountains.

After the cruise, we went for some "Teh Tarik" along the Waterfront. We were fortunate to come across MyKampung.com, a drinks stall, and its owner, Hatta, an enterprising Sarawakian businesman, who also owns a restaurant nearby. He has invited us for a Sarawakian cuisine dinner at his restaurant.

Teh Tarik was fantastic, it's multi layered and a good cap for the night - well, I'm nearly dozing off now. So that's my travel note for tonight. I will probably dream of picking stars from the Kuching sky while sipping teh tarik while cruising on the riverboat.

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