Thots Travel

Friday, August 06, 2004

Pampered in paradise

A trip to the jungle doesn't usually offer the chance of being pampered. But if it's indulgence you want, then the Malaysian resort of Tanjong Jara has to go straight to the top of your wish list. This is as gentle and charming an introduction to nature as you're likely to get. Tanjong Jara Resort is owned and managed by YTL Hotels and Properties.

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Daily Mail London (UK), 31 July 2004

A jungle jaunt may not promise much luxury unless you're exploring the wild side of Malaysia

By Allesandra Paudice

A trip to the jungle doesn't usually offer the chance of being pampered. But if it's indulgence you want, then the Malaysian resort of Tanjong Jara has to go straight to the top of your wish list. Forget any traumatic I'm A Celebrity, Get Me Out Of Here-style challenges - this is as gentle and charming an introduction to nature as you're likely to get.

The beautifully conceived eco-lodge banks on the dual formula of wilderness and wellbeing. Spread around a moon-shaped bay of the South China Sea's pristine waters, Tanjong Jara, located on the East Coast in the lush region of Terengganu, is built in the typical architectural style of the 17th-century sultans' palaces. In fact, it's so peaceful, you could be forgiven for thinking you've been mistakenly transported to a Thai Buddhist temple, staffed by Malay people who bend over backwards to please their guests.

Just as my suitcase was whisked out of sight to my suite, two young women appeared offering aromatic refreshing towels and a hydrating tropical cordial. I checked into my new home - a mini villa on stilts, with king-size bed, video and DVD player, air conditioning, and a huge bathroom opening onto an outdoor bathing alcove. Outside, a private veranda gave access to the communal garden and the deserted white sandy beach, framed by palm trees and mangroves.

It was soon time for my Malay massage - long, kneading strokes on the muscles and pressure applied to various points of the body - which had been booked to relieve my tiredness after the long-haul flight.

Afterwards, a light lunch with salad and satay, the national dish - chicken, mutton or beef, dipped in spicy peanut sauce - was served on the beach.

The next day, determined to immerse myself fully in local customs, I began with an open-air soak in the expansive outdoor stone bath. Covered with bubbles and rose petals, I sipped coffee and listened to chirping birds, crickets and the sound of foliage rustling in the breeze. My breakfast of fresh fruit and yoghurt was served by the Walking Menu, a charming waiter who eagerly recited, on command, the list of dishes available.

One of the beauties of Tanjong Jara is that you choose what part of nature you want to explore - be it a walk in the jungle, a swim offshore in the clear waters of a marine reserve or a cruise to the backwaters, and all under the guidance of Captain Mok, the resort's naturalist, who knows everything about the area's flora and fauna. He guided us through the 130-million-year-old Cemerung rainforest, softly caressing trees and plants like pets. We learned of the quinine tree whose serum is used as a natural anti-malaria remedy; the plant that is rubbed on the skin to get rid of bruises; the crocodile's tongue leaves that aborigine women use to reduce stretchmarks, and many other medical tips.

Hiking with Captain Mok made me realise that the jungle is like a giant general store - everything you need is there, you just need to know where to look.

The visit to the rainforest reached a climax when we crosseda wooden suspension bridge to head off to a 650ft waterfall. There we stopped to take a plunge in its cold waters and to contemplate the awesome beauty of the tropical wilderness. For the first time, I grasped the true meaning of an eco-resort.

Our adventure concluded with another fabulous massage, called Campur Campur.

For an hour-and-a-half, I experienced the relaxing benefit of Thai and Malay massage techniques, combined with the calming effect of aromatherapy.

For the rest of the afternoon I slept by the pool, awaking only when the aroma of exotic spices wafted across from the flat grill where fresh seafood and fish were being cooked under the stars.

Our next encounter with nature was a boat journey on the nearby Marang River. Again, Captain Mok surprised us with his tales. He told us about a special fish aborigines use as a Viagra substitute; pointed out a regal sea eagle and tried to catch the river crabs that seemed to want to play hide-and-seek with him. We even spotted a monitor lizard, but sadly I failed to catch it on camera to take back as a trophy photograph of the most exotic wild creature I had ever encountered in my city-girl life.

Next stop was a nearby Malay village, where beautiful little children ran up to us, but instead of offering the usual ' baiwanfriwan' (buy one get one free) bargain we dreaded, they asked instead for a 'gambar'. Having no idea what this was, we searched our pockets for pens, sweets and even money, none of which produced the slightest smile. But when they lined up next to each other and struck a pose, it became apparent that they were after a photo. The thrill of being caught by the flash light made them burst into uncontrollable laughter - a touching, memorable moment.

A walk through the village was like going back in time; men were out fishing, while women, children and the elderly were weaving palm leaves into roofs or making coconut sugar sweets. That evening we wandered around a local pasar malam (night market), where youngsters strolled up and down in their best clothes, making eye contact with would-be dates - the traditional version of our own speed dating. Many marriages start this way.

With flora and culture behind us, the marine world was next. Not being an aquatic animal, the very idea of being in the water with unknown tropical creatures caused me to fall into a state of panic. But you cannot go to Malaysia without snorkelling. I grabbed my flippers, and dived into the clear sea of the Tangol Island marine reserve, an hour's boat ride from the resort.

Floating on the surface and looking downwards, I discovered a multicoloured, peaceful world. I swam with the long-nosed Napoleon fish, and with electric blue, lilac, orange and yellow fish, whose scales looked like the local batik fabric. And for the first time I saw blue and pink coral reefs that marked the underwater ledges.

After a week in this magnificent natural sanctuary, I had become quite accustomed to a life in touch with my wild side. Who says you can't have it all?

Travel facts

Accommodation: Tanjong Jara, visit .

Details: Tourism Malaysia, tel: 020 7930 7932 or visit

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